Goa's beaches are now filled with persistent hawkers during the day and rave parties at night. For those intent on discovering the real India, Goa is the best treated as a relaxing break on the southern trail. Lavishly gifted by nature, Goa can also boast of its rich cultural and historical heritage. It is hardly surprising that the Portuguese who came in search of spices in 16th century decided to put down roots in this tropical paradise. Goa's natural boundaries, the Arabian Sea and the Sahyadri mountains, had sheltered it from much of India's inland turmoil, while its strategic location on the newly discovered trade route to the East made it even more attractive. Tucked away snugly between the hills of the Western Ghats on the East, Arabian Sea to the West, Maharashtra's coastline to the North, and Karnataka's coastline to the South, this tiny territory covers 1350sq miles (3500 sq km). It provides spectacular views with bottle green hills wooded with jackfruit, mango, and cashew groves, cut across by river and edged by miles of sun-drenched beaches. Warm, languid climates, and a gentle unspoilt people, complete this compelling kaleidoscope.